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Journal News Article

Home-cooking, Indian-style

By JULIA BONAR
FOR THE JOURNAL NEWS
Stuart Bayer/The Journal News
Cooking-class teacher Rinku Bhattacharya in one of the kitchens in her Valhalla home.

Cooking with Rinku
For an upcoming class schedule and other information, call 914-643-2363 or visit www.cookingwithrinku.com


Fennel-Scented Sweet Potato Pancakes (Ranga Alur Malpoa)

For the pancakes

2 sweet potatoes

1 1/2 cups fresh paneer (homemade Indian cheese, see note)

1/2 cup shredded coconut

2 cups evaporated milk (about 1 1/2 large cans)

3 tablespoons cream

1/2 cup semolina (cream of wheat)

3/4 cup self-raising flour

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 cup vegetable oil for frying

For the syrup

2 cups water

1 cup sugar

4 green cardamom pods

1 teaspoon rose water

Microwave the sweet potatoes with their skins on high for 4 minutes. Cool, peel and coarsely mash.

In a food processor, mix the potatoes, paneer, coconut, milk, cream and semolina for 2 minutes till smoothly blended.

Pour into a bowl, stir in the flour and fennel seeds. Cover and set aside in the refrigerator for half an hour.

Meanwhile, prepare the syrup.

Mix the water, sugar and cardamoms in a saucepan and bring to a boil and cook for 15 minutes.

Pour into a flat medium-deep dishpan (a pie pan is ideal for this). Stir in the rose water.

Pour a thin layer of oil in the skillet and heat. Test the oil with a drop of the batter, it should be fluffy and rise.

Pour large tablespoons of the batter into the oil. The shape should resemble a flat dumpling. Cook on medium-low heat for 4-5 minutes, they turn golden and the edges are crisp.

Turn and cook on the other side and cook for 2 more minutes. Drain the oil on the side of the pan, immerse these into the syrup and let them soak for about 10 minutes and serve warm.

Note: Paneer is available in most Indian stores, but the homemade version works better for this recipe. The recipe follows.

Yield: 15 to 20 pancakes.



Paneer (Indian homemade cheese)

1 gallon whole milk

2 limes

Heat the milk gradually in a large heavy bottomed pan.

When the milk comes to a boil, reduce the heat and squeeze in the juice of the limes. The milk solids should separate from the whey. Drain this using cheesecloth. Hang the mixture over a bowl or pot with a spoon or spatula for 3 to 4 hours to drain the water.

Yield: About 3 cups of cheese.


(Original publication: July 26, 2006)

I've long admired foods from other cultures that I've sampled at the homes of friends from all over the world.

The challenge is how to recreate these dishes at home. Many recipes are passed down from mothers or grandmothers who don't speak English, never use measuring spoons, and often write in a different alphabet.

Meanwhile, cookbook recipes fail to deliver an authentic, home-cooked taste.

What's needed is a coach, which is the role performed by Rinku Bhattacharya, who teaches Indian cooking classes in the basement kitchen of her home in Valhalla. While Bhattacharya has taught at Westchester Community College (and performed Indian cooking demonstrations at Whole Foods Market), she's essentially a home cook — whipping up delicious Indian dishes in an ordinary American kitchen. To see Bhattacharya cook — without a tandoor oven, in everyday pots and pans, with a temperamental blender — is to realize that you can do it, too. (Plus, she gives her students printed recipes with standard American measurements.)

Those expecting a Food Network-style performance will be disappointed. Taking a class with Bhattacharya is to be welcomed into her home and family. She dresses like most American women her age (on the day that I visited, she was barefoot and wearing a T-shirt), and is by day a controller at a nonprofit organization. During the class I attended, her cat Sophie was curled up in the corner, and her toddler daughter, Deeptha, joined the group.

While Bhattacharya gears each class to the interests and cooking proficiency of her students, all classes feature an elementary lesson in Indian spices, a description of common South Asian ingredients, and a demonstration of Indian cooking techniques. Lessons are delivered with humor and patience. Classes are limited to five students, which ensures an intimate, hands-on experience for all. Best of all, the class ends with a great meal, starring Bhattacharya's refreshing, star-anise-scented iced tea and the fruit of your labors.

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